On our recent Italian holiday, we decided to spend a few days getting away from the hustle and bustle. Of course, food and wine were high on the list as criteria for deciding where to go. After much looking, we decided on Emilia Romagna area. We settled on an agriturismo near Brisighella and with the proximity to Bologna, Modena, and Parma, we knew the good food box would be ticked.
Agriturismo Campiume was purchased by Filippo Manetti in 1998 in a state of disrepair. Though he is from nearby Brisighella, he was unaware the history dated back to 1301 until after he purchased the site from the church. He began researching it after the purchase finding the first mention of it in 1301 in a book in the nearby library. He restored the place, keeping original features like the stones, features of the chapel, and the terracotta floors. He also ensured the vines were in order to produce wine.
From the booking process and throughout the stay, Filippo was extremely helpful and accomodating. He provided restaurant recommendations and even made a few for us prior to arrival. Though this is a bed and breakfast set up, he offered to cook for us should we prefer to stay in any evening. Had I seen the original brick oven beforehand, I would have said yes!
The site has 4 rooms, one of which, Commander’s Suite.
We did not use it much but having a kitchen area is such a nice option when such inspiring ingredients are nearby.
The bathroom, shower only, was spacious and well-equipped, except for a hair dryer.
The other rooms can be entered via the main house where there is a lounge area for guests.
The lounge is where the chapel was and the altar made of chalk is still present.
Speaking to Filippo, it is obvious he was passionate about wine. We were fortunate enough to be staying on a day when a group from the Slow Food University was visiting and he asked us to stay and take part. He invited local artisan producers of hams, salamis, and cheeses to attend in order to share and describe their products.
Filippo explained the wine-making process to the group and his passion for producing the best wine possible really came through. He uses no chemicals and no machinery. He joked about being the farmer, the worker, the picker, and the grower.
We were able to try 4 of his wines. The first, named Gea, was an Albana grape. It was an orange wine, the amazing colour formed from leaving the grape skin in for a day.
We were also able to try his Campaglione, which was pure Sangiovese; San Lorenzo, a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot; and Fieni, made of Sangiovese, Cabernet and Malbo grapes. The Albana was particularly interesting due to the colour, style and finish. The red wines were all balanced, structured and good in their own rights. They were young and will last for a number of years. Suffice it to say, we purchased a number of bottles which Filippo is shipping to us as we would not have made the baggage weight limits otherwise.
Campiume has a nice pool with plenty of lounge chairs. Though it is near the house, it is built in a terraced way, offering privacy at the pool from anyone at the house. Agriturismo Campiume has a natural beauty with the grounds not being overly manicured.
An added bonus was a room with weights near the pool. On an Italian holiday eating so well, a way to get some exercise running through the vineyards and then using the weights was well received!
Finally, I would be remiss for not mentioning the breakfasts Filippo served. As we were the only guests, he asked what we would like and we agreed a “light” breakfast with him of fruit and bread. Though communication was never an issue with Filippo due to his ability to speak English, he either did not understand or more probably would not dream of only serving us this at his home.
Each morning, we were offered a loaf of bread and jam, a selection of whole fruit, melon, salami, a fresh cheese drizzled with olive oil and thyme, pastries, a large chunk of Parmesan Reggiano and coffee, very good coffee. It was entirely too much which I guess was the point to make it very memorable and relaxing.
If wanting a relaxed, quiet holiday with a very attentive B&B owner, great wine, and a nice selection of good nearby restaurants in Brisighella, this is an ideal spot for a few days. Bologna is an hour away and Modena less than an hour and a half so well-positioned for a rural break before or after a city one.
Agritourism Campiume di Filippo Manetti
Via Campiume, 6
48013 Brisighella (RA) – Italy
Mobile: +39 339 1137070